What Kind of Bleach Do You Use for Hair? A Comprehensive Guide

Bleaching your hair can be an exciting venture, transforming your look and opening up a world of vibrant colors. However, it’s also a chemical process that, if not handled correctly, can lead to damage and unwanted results. Choosing the right type of bleach is crucial for achieving your desired hair color while maintaining the health and integrity of your locks. This comprehensive guide will delve into the various types of bleach available, how to select the best one for your hair type and desired outcome, and essential precautions to take during the bleaching process.

Table of Contents

Understanding Hair Bleach: The Basics

At its core, hair bleach is a chemical agent designed to lighten the natural pigment of your hair. The active ingredient in most hair bleaches is usually hydrogen peroxide, sometimes called peroxide, or ammonium persulfate, which works to open the hair cuticle and break down the melanin (the pigment responsible for your hair color). This process allows you to deposit new color molecules, creating a lighter shade or a blank canvas for vibrant hues.

The effectiveness and potential damage of bleach depend on several factors, including the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the amount of time the bleach is left on the hair, and the overall health and condition of your hair. It’s essential to understand these factors before embarking on the bleaching process.

Types of Hair Bleach: Powders and Developers

Bleach isn’t a one-size-fits-all product. It typically comes in two separate components: a powder lightener and a developer. The powder lightener contains the bleaching agents that break down the hair’s pigment. The developer is a hydrogen peroxide solution that activates the bleach and determines its lifting power.

Powder Lighteners: Options and Considerations

Powder lighteners are available in various forms, each with its own unique properties and ideal applications.

Ammonia-Based Lighteners: These are the most powerful lighteners, capable of lifting several levels of color in a single application. However, they are also the most damaging and are best suited for experienced professionals or for those with very dark hair who need significant lightening. Ammonia-based lighteners can cause significant dryness and breakage if used improperly.
Ammonia-Free Lighteners: These lighteners are gentler than their ammonia-based counterparts, making them a better option for those with sensitive scalps or damaged hair. They lift less effectively, so they may require multiple applications to achieve the desired level of lightness. Ammonia-free lighteners are a good choice for less drastic color changes.
Clay-Based Lighteners: These lighteners are known for their gentle lifting action and are often used for techniques like balayage and highlights. The clay helps to keep the bleach moist and prevents it from drying out too quickly, reducing the risk of damage. Clay-based lighteners are ideal for controlled lightening and protecting hair health.
Oil-Based Lighteners: Oil-based lighteners are the mildest option, providing very gentle lightening. These are best for subtle lightening or for refreshing existing highlights. They are less likely to cause damage but may not be effective for lifting multiple levels.

Developers: Understanding Volume and Strength

The developer is a hydrogen peroxide solution measured in “volume.” The volume indicates the strength of the developer and its ability to lift the hair’s color. Choosing the right developer volume is crucial for achieving your desired results without causing excessive damage.

10 Volume Developer: This is the weakest developer, providing minimal lift. It is best suited for depositing color, toning, or making slight adjustments to existing highlights. It is also suitable for fragile or very damaged hair.
20 Volume Developer: A commonly used developer, it offers a good balance of lift and control. It’s suitable for covering gray hair, lifting 1-2 levels, and achieving subtle lightening effects. 20 volume developer is often recommended for at-home bleaching for its relative safety and effectiveness.
30 Volume Developer: This developer provides a significant amount of lift, typically 2-3 levels. It’s suitable for medium to dark hair and for achieving more dramatic lightening. However, it also increases the risk of damage, so it’s important to monitor the hair closely during processing.
40 Volume Developer: This is the strongest developer, capable of lifting 3-4 levels. It’s primarily used by experienced professionals for very dark hair or when significant lightening is required in a single application. 40 volume developer carries a high risk of damage and should be used with extreme caution. It’s usually best avoided at home.

Choosing the Right Bleach for Your Hair

Selecting the appropriate bleach depends on your hair type, starting color, desired outcome, and overall hair health. Consider the following factors:

Hair Type and Texture

Fine Hair: Fine hair is more prone to damage, so it’s essential to use a gentle bleach with a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume). Ammonia-free or oil-based lighteners are also good options.
Thick Hair: Thick hair can typically handle stronger bleach, but it’s still crucial to proceed with caution. Start with a 20 or 30 volume developer and monitor the hair closely.
Coarse Hair: Coarse hair can be resistant to lightening, so you may need to use a slightly stronger bleach. However, avoid using 40 volume developer unless you are experienced in hair bleaching.
Damaged Hair: If your hair is already damaged, avoid bleaching altogether until it’s healthy again. If you must bleach, use the gentlest possible bleach with a 10 volume developer and consider using bond-building treatments.

Starting Hair Color and Desired Level of Lightening

The darker your starting hair color, the stronger the bleach you’ll need to achieve your desired level of lightness. If you’re starting with black hair and want to achieve a platinum blonde, you’ll need a high-lift bleach and possibly multiple applications. If you’re starting with light brown hair and only want to lighten it a few shades, a weaker bleach will suffice.

Dark Hair (Levels 1-3): Requires a stronger bleach, possibly ammonia-based, with a 30 or 40 volume developer for significant lightening. Multiple sessions might be needed.
Medium Brown Hair (Levels 4-5): Can be lightened with a 20 or 30 volume developer, depending on the desired level of lightness.
Light Brown/Dark Blonde Hair (Levels 6-7): Can be lightened with a 10 or 20 volume developer.
Light Blonde Hair (Levels 8-10): Requires minimal lifting, so a 10 volume developer is usually sufficient. Toning is often more important than bleaching.

Hair’s Overall Health

If your hair is already dry, brittle, or prone to breakage, bleaching will only exacerbate these problems. Prioritize repairing and strengthening your hair before attempting to bleach it. Use deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoid heat styling.

The Bleaching Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

Bleaching your hair at home requires careful planning and execution. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Preparation: Gather all your supplies, including the bleach powder, developer, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and a timer. Perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the processing time.
Mixing: Mix the bleach powder and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The consistency should be similar to a thick yogurt.
Application: Apply the bleach evenly to your hair, starting from the roots (if you have virgin hair) or the mid-lengths and ends (if you have previously bleached hair). Work in small sections to ensure thorough coverage.
Processing: Monitor your hair closely during the processing time, checking every few minutes to assess the level of lightness. The processing time will vary depending on the strength of the bleach and your desired level of lightness.
Rinsing: Once your hair has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse it thoroughly with cool water.
Toning: Bleaching often leaves hair with unwanted yellow or orange tones. Use a toner to neutralize these tones and achieve a more even and desirable color.
Conditioning: Apply a deep conditioner to your hair to replenish moisture and repair any damage caused by the bleaching process.

Safety Precautions and Important Considerations

Bleaching your hair involves chemicals that can be harmful if not handled correctly. Here are some essential safety precautions to keep in mind:

Always perform a strand test: This will help you determine the processing time and assess how your hair reacts to the bleach.
Wear gloves: Bleach can irritate your skin, so always wear gloves during the application process.
Protect your clothing: Bleach can stain or damage clothing, so wear an old towel or t-shirt.
Avoid getting bleach in your eyes: If bleach gets in your eyes, rinse them immediately with cool water for at least 15 minutes and seek medical attention.
Do not exceed the recommended processing time: Over-processing can cause severe damage and breakage.
Do not bleach damaged hair: Wait until your hair is healthy before attempting to bleach it.
Use a toner: Toning is essential for neutralizing unwanted tones and achieving a more desirable color.
Deep condition your hair: Bleaching can dry out your hair, so deep conditioning is essential for replenishing moisture and repairing damage.
Consider professional help: If you’re unsure about any aspect of the bleaching process, consult a professional stylist.
Don’t bleach too often: Give your hair plenty of time to recover between bleaching sessions to prevent cumulative damage.

Aftercare: Maintaining Healthy Bleached Hair

Bleached hair requires special care to maintain its health and vibrancy. Here are some tips for keeping your bleached hair in top condition:

Use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner: Sulfates can strip your hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and damage.
Deep condition regularly: Deep conditioning treatments help to replenish moisture and repair damage.
Use a protein mask: Protein masks help to strengthen your hair and prevent breakage.
Avoid heat styling: Heat styling can further damage bleached hair, so try to air dry your hair whenever possible.
Use a heat protectant: If you must use heat styling tools, always use a heat protectant spray.
Trim your hair regularly: Trimming your hair helps to remove split ends and prevent breakage.
Protect your hair from the sun: The sun can fade your hair color and damage the hair shaft, so wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
Stay hydrated: Drinking plenty of water helps to keep your hair hydrated from the inside out.

Choosing the right type of bleach and following proper safety precautions are crucial for achieving your desired hair color while maintaining the health and integrity of your locks. By understanding the different types of bleach available, considering your hair type and desired outcome, and taking the necessary precautions, you can confidently embark on your hair bleaching journey. If you’re ever unsure about any aspect of the process, don’t hesitate to consult a professional stylist. They can provide personalized advice and ensure that your hair remains healthy and beautiful.

What is the difference between bleach volume developers, and how do I choose the right one?

Choosing the right developer volume is crucial for achieving your desired hair lightening results while minimizing damage. Developers activate the bleach and determine the lift (how many levels lighter your hair becomes). Higher volumes lift more quickly and aggressively but also increase the risk of damage, while lower volumes are gentler but may require more applications to reach your desired lightness.

For fine or damaged hair, stick to a 10 or 20 volume developer for a gentler lift. Medium to thick hair can handle a 20 or 30 volume developer, while coarse or very dark hair might require a 30 or even 40 volume developer, though this should only be done by experienced professionals due to the increased risk of damage. Always consider your hair’s current condition and desired level of lift when choosing a developer volume.

Can I use household bleach to lighten my hair?

Absolutely not. Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is a harsh chemical designed for cleaning surfaces and is incredibly damaging to hair and skin. It will likely cause severe chemical burns, hair breakage, and potentially permanent damage to your scalp.

Hair bleach is formulated specifically for hair and contains ingredients to help protect the hair shaft during the lightening process. Even hair bleach can be damaging, but it’s significantly less so than household bleach. Never attempt to use household bleach on your hair; it’s simply not worth the irreversible damage it can cause.

What are the common types of hair bleach available?

The most common types of hair bleach come in powder form, which is mixed with a developer to create the bleaching mixture. This powder can vary in strength and formulation, with some containing additives to help protect the hair or tone the hair while it lightens.

Cream bleach is another option, which is often considered gentler and easier to apply evenly. It’s pre-mixed, so there’s less room for error in the mixing process. Oil-based bleaches are also available and are generally considered the mildest option, but they may not provide as much lift as powder or cream bleaches.

How do I prepare my hair before bleaching?

Before bleaching, it’s essential to ensure your hair is in the best possible condition to minimize damage. Avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching to allow natural oils to build up and protect your scalp.

Consider using deep conditioning treatments or hair masks in the weeks leading up to your bleaching session to hydrate and strengthen your hair. Avoid using heat styling tools, such as straighteners and curling irons, in the days leading up to bleaching, as heat can further dry out and weaken your hair.

What safety precautions should I take when bleaching my hair at home?

Protecting yourself and your hair is paramount when bleaching at home. Always wear gloves to protect your hands from chemical burns and avoid getting bleach on your skin. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling harmful fumes.

Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and to determine the appropriate processing time. Never leave bleach on your hair longer than recommended, and carefully monitor your hair throughout the process.

How can I maintain the health of my hair after bleaching?

Bleaching can be very drying, so it’s important to replenish moisture and protein in your hair after bleaching. Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated hair. Incorporate deep conditioning treatments and hair masks into your routine at least once a week.

Limit heat styling as much as possible to prevent further damage and breakage. Use heat protectant sprays when you do use heat styling tools. Consider using leave-in conditioners and hair oils to keep your hair hydrated and protected between washes.

What are some alternatives to traditional bleach for lightening hair?

For those seeking gentler options, there are alternatives to traditional bleach that can provide subtle lightening. Products like sun-in, highlighting kits designed for at-home use, and color-lifting shampoos can offer a gradual lightening effect.

Natural remedies such as lemon juice and honey, when combined with sunlight, can also lighten hair, although results may vary greatly and can be unpredictable. Keep in mind that these alternatives often provide less dramatic results than traditional bleach, and may not be suitable for very dark hair or for achieving significant color changes.