The “Chicago Handshake.” The very name conjures images of smoky bars, backroom deals, and maybe even a bit of old-school grit. But behind the evocative moniker lies a deceptively simple drink combination: a shot of Jeppson’s Malört and an ice-cold Old Style beer. But why this particular pairing? And why is it called a “handshake?” The answers are steeped in Chicago history, local pride, and a healthy dose of ironic humor. This article delves into the fascinating story behind this iconic Chicago tradition.
The Origins of the Unlikely Duo
To truly understand the Chicago Handshake, you have to understand its individual components. Both Jeppson’s Malört and Old Style beer have deep roots in the city’s cultural fabric, and their somewhat accidental pairing is a testament to Chicago’s unique character.
Jeppson’s Malört: A Bitter Legacy
Let’s start with the notorious Malört. This besk brännvin, or “bitter spirit,” has a flavor profile that’s often described as… challenging. Its signature ingredient is wormwood, the same herb found in absinthe, which contributes to its intensely bitter and somewhat medicinal taste.
Carl Jeppson, the man behind the brand, was a Swedish immigrant who originally produced the spirit in Chicago’s Albany Park neighborhood in the 1930s. During Prohibition, he sold it as a “medicinal” cure-all, cleverly sidestepping the restrictions on alcohol sales. This cleverness likely contributed to its survival after Prohibition ended.
The brand changed hands several times over the years, but the recipe and the distinctively unpleasant flavor remained remarkably consistent. The new owner, CH Distillery, eventually moved the production to Florida but ultimately brought it back to the Chicago area, acknowledging its strong connection to the city.
Malört’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to evoke strong reactions. People either love it, hate it, or love to hate it. This divisiveness has ironically become part of its charm, making it a symbol of Chicago’s unpretentious and often self-deprecating sense of humor.
Old Style: The Quintessential Chicago Beer
Now, let’s move on to Old Style. This classic American lager has been a Chicago staple for generations. Originally brewed by the G. Heileman Brewing Company in La Crosse, Wisconsin, Old Style quickly gained popularity in Chicago and became synonymous with the city’s blue-collar culture.
Its straightforward, no-frills flavor and affordable price made it the beer of choice for many Chicagoans, from factory workers to baseball fans. For years, the Old Style logo graced the iconic Wrigley Field scoreboard, further cementing its place in the city’s collective consciousness.
Even though Old Style is no longer brewed in the region, its ties to Chicago remain strong. Pabst Brewing Company, which currently owns the brand, continues to market it heavily in the Chicago area, recognizing its enduring appeal. The beer represents a nostalgic link to a simpler time, a time when a cold, crisp lager was all you needed to enjoy a summer evening.
The Birth of the “Handshake”
So, how did these two seemingly disparate drinks come together to form the “Chicago Handshake?” The exact origins are murky, shrouded in barroom lore and anecdotal tales. However, several theories attempt to explain the phenomenon.
A Shot and a Beer: The Classic Combo
The most straightforward explanation is that it’s simply a variation on the classic “shot and a beer” combination, a common pairing in bars across the United States. The idea is that the beer helps to wash down the shot, providing a chaser and a bit of refreshment.
In Chicago, the choice of Malört as the shot component is what makes the handshake unique. The intense bitterness of the Malört is somewhat tempered by the crisp, clean taste of the Old Style, creating a surprisingly complementary pairing – or at least, that’s the rationale.
A Rite of Passage: Welcoming Newcomers
Another theory suggests that the Chicago Handshake evolved as a sort of initiation ritual, a way to welcome newcomers to the city or to test their mettle. Offering someone a shot of Malört is a surefire way to gauge their reaction and see if they can handle the city’s unique brand of humor and resilience.
Surviving the Malört experience, followed by the comforting familiarity of an Old Style, could be seen as a symbolic entry into the Chicago club, a testament to one’s ability to embrace the city’s quirks and oddities.
The Power of Irony: Embracing the Unpleasant
Perhaps the most compelling explanation lies in the embrace of irony. Chicagoans are known for their self-deprecating humor and their willingness to poke fun at themselves. The Chicago Handshake, with its intentionally unpleasant Malört chaser, embodies this spirit perfectly.
It’s a way of saying, “We know this tastes terrible, but we’re going to drink it anyway.” It’s a celebration of the city’s unpretentious and often gritty character, a refusal to take itself too seriously. The discomfort is almost the point.
Why “Handshake?” The Symbolic Gesture
The term “handshake” itself is significant. It suggests a sense of camaraderie, agreement, and mutual respect. In the context of the Chicago Handshake, it represents a shared experience, a bond formed over a common, albeit somewhat unpleasant, ritual.
Offering someone a Chicago Handshake is more than just buying them a drink; it’s an invitation to join the club, to become part of the Chicago community. It’s a symbolic gesture of welcome, acceptance, and perhaps even a bit of playful hazing.
The handshake also symbolizes a deal, a tacit understanding between two people. It implies a certain level of trust and familiarity, even if it’s just a shared appreciation for the absurd.
The Chicago Handshake in Popular Culture
The Chicago Handshake has permeated popular culture, appearing in television shows, movies, and even local merchandise. Its notoriety has spread beyond the city limits, attracting the curiosity of adventurous drinkers and curious tourists.
The drink combination has become a shorthand for all things Chicago, a quick and easy way to evoke the city’s unique character and cultural identity. It’s a testament to the power of local traditions and the enduring appeal of a good story.
Many Chicago bars proudly offer the Chicago Handshake on their menus, often with a playful disclaimer about the Malört’s… unique flavor. Some establishments even offer variations on the theme, experimenting with different beers or adding creative twists to the shot.
The Enduring Legacy of a Bitter Tradition
The Chicago Handshake is more than just a drink; it’s a cultural phenomenon. It’s a symbol of Chicago’s history, its people, and its unique sense of humor. It’s a testament to the power of local traditions and the enduring appeal of a good story.
Whether you love it or hate it, there’s no denying that the Chicago Handshake is a force to be reckoned with. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best things in life are the things that challenge us, the things that push us outside of our comfort zones.
So, the next time you find yourself in Chicago, consider trying a Chicago Handshake. Just be prepared for the experience. It might be bitter, it might be unpleasant, but it will definitely be memorable. And who knows, you might even find yourself embracing the city’s unique brand of irony and joining the ranks of those who proudly call themselves Chicagoans.
The combination perfectly captures the spirit of a city that is both proud and self-aware, gritty and welcoming, a place where even the most unpleasant experiences can become cherished traditions. It’s a reminder that in Chicago, even a bitter drink can be a symbol of friendship and community.
The enduring appeal of the Chicago Handshake lies in its authenticity. It’s not a trendy cocktail or a carefully crafted concoction. It’s a simple, unpretentious pairing that reflects the city’s down-to-earth character. It’s a drink that tells a story, a drink that connects people, a drink that embodies the spirit of Chicago.
The Chicago Handshake is more than just a sum of its parts. It’s a cultural touchstone, a conversation starter, and a rite of passage. It’s a reminder that even the most unusual traditions can have a profound impact, shaping our identity and connecting us to something larger than ourselves.
The next time someone offers you a Chicago Handshake, remember that they’re not just offering you a drink; they’re offering you a piece of Chicago. Embrace the experience, savor the bitterness (or at least try to), and raise a glass to the city that made it all possible.
The beauty of the Chicago Handshake lies in its simplicity. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best things in life are the most unassuming. It’s a celebration of the everyday, a toast to the ordinary, and a nod to the unpretentious spirit of Chicago.
The legend of the Chicago Handshake continues to evolve, adapting to the changing times while remaining true to its roots. It’s a testament to the city’s resilience and its ability to embrace its past while looking towards the future.
Why is it called a “Chicago Handshake”?
The “Chicago Handshake” moniker refers to a specific drink combination popularized in Chicago, typically consisting of a shot of Jeppson’s Malört and an Old Style beer. The name humorously alludes to a rite of passage or informal initiation within the city. It suggests a shared, often unpleasant (due to Malört’s famously bitter taste), experience that binds individuals together, signifying their acceptance or understanding of Chicago culture.
The origin of the name is debated, but it likely evolved from the custom of bartenders offering this pairing to newcomers or those celebrating a special occasion. It’s a tongue-in-cheek acknowledgment of the city’s unique character, embracing both its working-class roots (Old Style) and its willingness to embrace unconventional tastes (Malört). Over time, it’s become a symbolic representation of Chicago’s gritty charm and insider culture.
What are the components of a traditional Chicago Handshake?
The traditional Chicago Handshake consists of two core elements: a shot of Jeppson’s Malört and a can or bottle of Old Style beer. Jeppson’s Malört is a notoriously bitter Swedish-style bäsk liquor flavored with wormwood. Its distinctive, almost medicinal, taste is a significant part of the Handshake experience.
Old Style, a mass-produced, light-bodied lager brewed by Pabst Brewing Company, serves as the chaser and provides a contrasting, relatively palatable counterbalance to the intense bitterness of Malört. The combination is specifically these two ingredients; substitutions are generally not accepted as a true “Chicago Handshake.” The perceived imbalance and stark contrast are what make the experience memorable (or regrettable) for many.
Where did the Chicago Handshake originate?
Pinpointing the exact origin is difficult, but the Chicago Handshake likely emerged from neighborhood bars and taverns across the city, particularly those with strong ties to working-class communities. While no single establishment can definitively claim its invention, the Handshake seems to have organically developed as a local tradition among bartenders and patrons.
The popularity of both Jeppson’s Malört and Old Style within Chicago’s bar scene provided the perfect conditions for this pairing to take hold. Bartenders may have initially offered the combination as a playful challenge or a way to gauge a patron’s tolerance for strong flavors. Over time, it evolved into a symbolic gesture representing Chicago’s unique cultural identity.
What does the Chicago Handshake symbolize?
The Chicago Handshake symbolizes a sense of camaraderie and shared experience within the city. It represents an unofficial initiation into Chicago culture, often seen as a playful test of one’s tolerance for the city’s unique, and sometimes acquired, tastes. Accepting (or enduring) the Handshake signifies a willingness to embrace the city’s quirks and connect with its people.
Beyond the shared suffering of the Malört, the Handshake also symbolizes Chicago’s working-class roots and its unpretentious attitude. Old Style beer, a budget-friendly and widely available option, reinforces this blue-collar connection. In a way, the Chicago Handshake is a celebration of authenticity and a rejection of overly refined or pretentious experiences.
Is the Chicago Handshake actually popular in Chicago?
While not universally embraced, the Chicago Handshake holds a significant place in Chicago’s bar culture and is widely recognized throughout the city. You’ll find it offered and consumed in numerous bars, particularly those with a strong local following. It’s often ordered as a novelty drink or a rite of passage for visitors.
However, it’s important to note that opinions on the Chicago Handshake are divided. Many Chicagoans have a strong aversion to Malört’s intense bitterness and would never willingly partake. Nevertheless, its presence as a cultural touchstone is undeniable, and it continues to be a frequently discussed and debated topic within the city.
Why is Malört so bitter?
Malört’s intense bitterness stems from its primary flavoring ingredient: wormwood. Wormwood contains thujone, a chemical compound known for its potent bitter taste. The recipe, based on a Swedish bäsk, is specifically designed to produce this intense and distinctive bitterness.
The fermentation and distillation processes further contribute to the complex flavor profile, but the wormwood remains the dominant source of bitterness. While some enjoy the challenge and unique flavor of Malört, many find it unpalatable due to its unrelenting bitterness, often describing it with colorful and often negative metaphors.
Are there variations of the Chicago Handshake?
While the traditional Chicago Handshake consists of Malört and Old Style, variations do exist, though they’re not considered “true” Handshakes by purists. Some bars might substitute a different light lager for Old Style, particularly if Old Style isn’t readily available.
More unconventional variations involve mixing Malört with other ingredients to create cocktails, attempting to mask or balance its bitterness. However, these are generally seen as deviations from the original and more of a creative use of Malört rather than a genuine Handshake variation. The core element, the shot of Malört, remains the defining factor.