The Reuben sandwich. Just the name conjures images of grilled rye bread, tangy sauerkraut, savory corned beef, melted Swiss cheese, and the creamy, slightly sweet, and utterly irresistible Russian (or sometimes Thousand Island) dressing. It’s a symphony of flavors and textures, a culinary masterpiece that has earned its place in the pantheon of American sandwiches. But have you ever stopped to wonder why this particular combination of ingredients bears the name “Reuben?” The answer, like the sandwich itself, is layered with history, folklore, and a healthy dose of delicious debate.
The Competing Reuben Origin Stories
The story of the Reuben’s origin is shrouded in a bit of mystery, with two main contenders vying for the title of “birthplace” and “creator.” Both stories revolve around the 1920s and 30s, a period when sandwiches were evolving from simple fare to more complex and creative concoctions.
Reuben’s Restaurant in New York City: The Big Apple’s Claim
One popular narrative places the Reuben’s genesis in New York City, at Reuben’s Restaurant, a legendary deli founded by Arnold Reuben. According to this account, around 1914 (some accounts say 1920 or even later), actress Marjorie Rambeau, a frequent patron of the restaurant, requested something new and different for lunch. Arnold Reuben, ever the obliging host, is said to have concocted a sandwich using rye bread, ham, Swiss cheese, turkey, and coleslaw. He dubbed it the “Reuben Special” in her honor.
Over time, the “Reuben Special” evolved. Some believe corned beef replaced the ham and turkey, sauerkraut took the place of coleslaw, and Russian dressing was added, transforming it into the iconic sandwich we know today. While this is a compelling tale, historical records from Reuben’s Restaurant during that time are scarce, making it difficult to definitively prove. The narrative relies heavily on anecdotal evidence and word-of-mouth accounts passed down through generations. Arnold Reuben himself claimed credit for the sandwich, solidifying the New York connection in many minds.
Blackstone Hotel in Omaha: A Midwestern Contender
The other major story transports us to Omaha, Nebraska, specifically to the Blackstone Hotel. Here, the tale revolves around a poker game held sometime between 1920 and 1935. According to this version, Reuben Kulakofsky (also known as Reuben Kay), a Lithuanian-born grocer, was a participant in the weekly poker game hosted at the Blackstone Hotel.
One evening, Kulakofsky, feeling hungry, requested something unique from the hotel’s kitchen. Bernard Schimmel, the hotel’s owner and chef, allegedly whipped up a sandwich using corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on rye bread. This combination proved to be a hit not just with Kulakofsky, but with the other poker players as well. The sandwich was added to the Blackstone Hotel’s menu, named the “Reuben” in honor of its creator (or at least, the one who requested it).
This origin story has more documented evidence to support it. Several newspaper articles and menus from the Blackstone Hotel during the relevant period mention the “Reuben” sandwich, attributing it to the hotel’s kitchen. Furthermore, descendants of Reuben Kulakofsky have actively promoted this version of the story, providing family records and anecdotes to bolster their claim.
Weighing the Evidence: Which Story is More Likely?
Determining the “true” origin of the Reuben sandwich is a complex task. Both stories have their supporters and detractors, and both are rooted in a specific time and place.
The New York story, while compelling, suffers from a lack of concrete documentation. The early menus from Reuben’s Restaurant are difficult to trace, and the account relies heavily on personal recollections.
The Omaha story, on the other hand, boasts more tangible evidence in the form of newspaper mentions and documented menus from the Blackstone Hotel. Furthermore, the Kulakofsky family’s active involvement in preserving and promoting their ancestor’s role adds credibility to their claim.
Arguments in Favor of the Omaha Story
Several factors point toward the Omaha story as the more likely origin. The Blackstone Hotel was a prominent establishment in Omaha during the relevant period, and its menus provide a tangible record of the sandwich’s existence. The documented accounts of the poker game and the subsequent naming of the sandwich further strengthen the Omaha claim.
Arguments in Favor of the New York Story
The enduring fame of Reuben’s Restaurant in New York cannot be ignored. The restaurant’s reputation as a premier deli and its association with Arnold Reuben have cemented its place in sandwich history. The sheer longevity of Reuben’s Restaurant and its impact on the culinary landscape lend weight to the New York claim, even in the absence of definitive documentation.
Deconstructing the Reuben: Key Ingredients and Their History
Regardless of its precise origin, the Reuben sandwich is more than just the sum of its parts. Each ingredient contributes to the overall flavor profile and texture, creating a culinary experience that is both satisfying and memorable.
Rye Bread: A Foundation of Flavor
The choice of rye bread is crucial to the Reuben’s success. Its distinctive flavor, often described as slightly sour and earthy, provides a perfect counterpoint to the rich corned beef and tangy sauerkraut. The bread is typically grilled or toasted, adding a crisp texture that contrasts beautifully with the soft interior. The robust nature of rye bread also ensures that the sandwich holds together well, even with its generous filling.
Corned Beef: The Heart of the Sandwich
Corned beef is the star of the Reuben. This cured beef brisket is typically brined in a mixture of salt, spices, and sugar, giving it its characteristic flavor and pinkish hue. The brining process tenderizes the meat, resulting in a succulent and flavorful filling. The quality of the corned beef is paramount to the overall success of the Reuben, and it’s often sourced from reputable delis or prepared in-house for optimal results.
Sauerkraut: A Tangy Counterpoint
Sauerkraut, fermented cabbage, provides a tangy and slightly sour counterpoint to the rich corned beef and creamy dressing. Its acidity cuts through the richness of the other ingredients, adding a refreshing element to the sandwich. The best sauerkraut is typically well-drained, ensuring that the sandwich doesn’t become soggy. Some variations of the Reuben may use different types of fermented cabbage, but the core purpose remains the same: to provide a tangy balance to the other flavors.
Swiss Cheese: Melted Perfection
Swiss cheese, with its mild, nutty flavor and excellent melting properties, is the perfect choice for the Reuben. It melts beautifully under the heat of the grill, creating a gooey and decadent layer that binds the other ingredients together. The slightly sweet notes of Swiss cheese complement the savory corned beef and tangy sauerkraut, adding another layer of complexity to the flavor profile.
Russian (or Thousand Island) Dressing: The Finishing Touch
The dressing is the final, crucial element of the Reuben sandwich. While some variations use Thousand Island dressing, the traditional Reuben typically features Russian dressing. Both dressings are creamy and slightly sweet, but Russian dressing tends to be spicier, containing ingredients like horseradish or chili sauce. The dressing adds moisture and flavor to the sandwich, tying all the other ingredients together in a harmonious blend.
The Enduring Appeal of the Reuben Sandwich
Regardless of its true origin, the Reuben sandwich has become a culinary icon, enjoyed by millions around the world. Its enduring appeal lies in its perfect balance of flavors and textures, its satisfying heartiness, and its ability to evoke a sense of comfort and nostalgia. Whether you prefer the New York story or the Omaha story, one thing is certain: the Reuben sandwich is a testament to the power of culinary innovation and the enduring appeal of a well-crafted sandwich. It’s a story that continues to be told and retold, one delicious bite at a time.
Reuben Variations: Exploring Beyond the Classic
While the classic Reuben recipe remains a beloved standard, countless variations have emerged over the years, each offering a unique twist on the original. These variations often involve substituting ingredients or adding new elements to create a different flavor profile.
The Rachel: Turkey Takes Center Stage
One of the most popular Reuben variations is the Rachel, which substitutes turkey for corned beef. The Rachel maintains the other core ingredients – rye bread, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing – but the leaner turkey provides a lighter and slightly sweeter flavor.
The Cuban Reuben: A Fusion of Flavors
Another interesting variation is the Cuban Reuben, which combines elements of the classic Reuben with those of a Cuban sandwich. This variation typically features roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard, and sometimes a touch of Russian dressing, all pressed together on Cuban bread.
Vegetarian Reubens: A Plant-Based Delight
Vegetarian Reubens offer a plant-based alternative to the traditional meat-filled version. These variations often use ingredients like tempeh, seitan, or marinated portobello mushrooms to replicate the texture and flavor of corned beef. The other ingredients – rye bread, Swiss cheese (or a vegan alternative), sauerkraut, and Russian dressing – remain largely unchanged.
Conclusion: A Sandwich Steeped in History and Flavor
The question of why a Reuben is called a Reuben may never be definitively answered. Both the New York and Omaha stories offer compelling narratives, each with its own supporting evidence. What is undeniable, however, is the sandwich’s enduring popularity and its significant place in American culinary history. Whether it was born in a New York deli or a Nebraska hotel, the Reuben sandwich remains a masterpiece of flavor and texture, a testament to the creativity and innovation that can be found in the simplest of foods. The next time you bite into a Reuben, take a moment to appreciate its rich history and the delicious mystery that surrounds its origin.
What are the most commonly accepted theories behind the Reuben sandwich’s origin?
There are two primary and competing origin stories for the Reuben sandwich. The first, and perhaps most popular, attributes its creation to Reuben Kulakofsky (often spelled “Kulakofsky”) a grocer from Omaha, Nebraska. He supposedly requested the sandwich at the Blackstone Hotel in the 1920s during a poker game. The hotel’s cook, inspired by Kulakofsky’s preferences, created the now-iconic combination of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on rye bread.
The second theory places the sandwich’s birth in New York City at Reuben’s Delicatessen, owned by Arnold Reuben. Supporters of this origin claim Arnold Reuben created the sandwich in 1914 for actress Annette Seelos who was looking for something special after a late show. While both stories have proponents, the Omaha narrative has gained more widespread acceptance, largely due to documented accounts and the Blackstone Hotel’s continued promotion of its Reuben sandwich legacy.
Who was Reuben Kulakofsky and what role did he supposedly play in the sandwich’s creation?
Reuben Kulakofsky was a Lithuanian-Jewish grocer residing in Omaha, Nebraska. He was a prominent figure in the local community and a regular player in a weekly poker game held at the Blackstone Hotel during the 1920s. The legend goes that Kulakofsky, tired of the usual sandwiches, requested something different from the hotel’s kitchen.
It’s said that Bernard Schimmel, the hotel’s cook, took inspiration from Kulakofsky’s preferences and assembled the first Reuben sandwich using ingredients available at the time: corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing, all grilled on rye bread. The sandwich quickly became a favorite among Kulakofsky’s poker buddies, and its popularity spread throughout the Blackstone Hotel, solidifying Kulakofsky’s place in culinary history.
What is the significance of the Blackstone Hotel in the story of the Reuben?
The Blackstone Hotel in Omaha, Nebraska, plays a central role in the widely accepted narrative surrounding the Reuben sandwich’s origin. According to this version of the story, the Reuben was invented within the hotel’s kitchen by a cook named Bernard Schimmel in response to a request from Reuben Kulakofsky, a frequent guest and poker player at the hotel.
The Blackstone Hotel has actively embraced and promoted its connection to the Reuben sandwich. For many years, the hotel served its own version of the Reuben, further cementing its status as the birthplace of the iconic sandwich. Though the Blackstone Hotel has undergone changes over the years, its legacy as the potential point of origin for the Reuben continues to draw food enthusiasts and history buffs alike.
What is the alternative origin story involving Reuben’s Delicatessen in New York City?
The alternative theory attributes the creation of the Reuben sandwich to Arnold Reuben, the owner of Reuben’s Delicatessen in New York City. This story claims that in 1914, actress Annette Seelos visited the delicatessen after a late-night performance and requested a unique sandwich.
Arnold Reuben, according to this account, crafted a sandwich using ham, turkey, Swiss cheese, and coleslaw on rye bread, which he then named the “Reuben Special” in her honor. While this origin story holds a place in the Reuben’s history, it is less widely accepted than the Blackstone Hotel narrative, primarily due to the different ingredients and later creation date compared to the common Reuben recipe.
What are the key differences between the Omaha and New York versions of the Reuben origin story?
The primary difference lies in the creator and the ingredients of the original sandwich. The Omaha story credits Reuben Kulakofsky’s request and Bernard Schimmel’s creation at the Blackstone Hotel with corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on rye. This version is considered closer to the modern Reuben sandwich.
The New York story, on the other hand, attributes the invention to Arnold Reuben at Reuben’s Delicatessen, with a sandwich containing ham, turkey, Swiss cheese, and coleslaw on rye bread. This version, named the “Reuben Special,” differs significantly from the ingredients generally associated with the iconic Reuben today, making the Omaha version the more likely origin for the sandwich known globally.
Why is the Omaha origin story generally considered more credible?
The Omaha origin story, centered around Reuben Kulakofsky and the Blackstone Hotel, is often favored due to the documented accounts and local support it has garnered over the years. The Blackstone Hotel actively promoted its connection to the Reuben, solidifying its place in the sandwich’s history through menus and local lore, offering a tangible connection to the sandwich’s supposed birthplace.
Furthermore, the ingredients in the Omaha version of the story – corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing – more closely align with the universally accepted composition of the Reuben sandwich. The consistency of the ingredients with the modern recipe contributes to the overall credibility of the Omaha origin story.
Has the Reuben sandwich changed over time, and if so, how?
Yes, the Reuben sandwich has evolved over time, though the core components remain consistent. Early versions might have used slightly different cuts of meat or variations of Russian dressing. Some regional adaptations also exist, featuring ingredients such as thousand island dressing as a substitute for Russian dressing.
Despite these variations, the fundamental combination of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and a creamy dressing, grilled on rye bread, has endured. The modern Reuben is a testament to the enduring appeal of these flavors and textures, which continue to delight sandwich enthusiasts worldwide.