Highlighting your hair is a fantastic way to add dimension, brightness, and personality to your look. However, achieving salon-perfect highlights at home can be tricky, and mistakes happen. Maybe your highlights are too brassy, too orange, too light, or simply uneven. Don’t panic! This guide will walk you through how to assess the damage and fix your highlighted hair at home, saving you a potentially costly trip to the salon.
Identifying the Problem: What Went Wrong With Your Highlights?
Before you grab the first product you see, it’s crucial to understand exactly what went wrong. Identifying the issue will help you choose the right corrective measures.
Brassy or Orange Highlights
This is perhaps the most common complaint. Brassy or orange tones appear when the underlying warm pigments in your hair are exposed during the lightening process. Darker hair colors, especially those with red undertones, are more prone to brassiness.
The science behind this is simple. Hair contains melanin, which comes in two main types: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black colors) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow colors). When you lighten hair, you’re essentially stripping away the melanin. Eumelanin is generally easier to remove than pheomelanin, which means the warm, reddish-orange tones of pheomelanin are often the last to go, resulting in brassy highlights.
Highlights are Too Light or Bleached
Sometimes, the opposite problem occurs: your highlights are too light or bleached-looking. This can happen if you left the bleach on for too long, used too strong of a developer, or if your hair is naturally very light.
Over-processed hair is often dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. It might feel like straw and lack shine. In severe cases, it can even become gummy or elastic when wet.
Uneven or Patchy Highlights
Uneven highlights can result from inconsistent application, using the wrong tools, or having sections of hair that process differently. This can create a spotty or zebra-striped effect.
Factors like previous hair treatments, heat damage, and even the way you sectioned your hair can contribute to uneven results.
Highlights are Too Chunky or Stripy
The trend is definitely shifting away from thick, stripy highlights. If your highlights look dated or unnatural, they might be too chunky or lack proper blending.
Proper highlighting involves strategically placing thin, subtle pieces of lightened hair to create a multi-dimensional and natural-looking effect.
Damage and Breakage
Highlighting, especially with bleach, can be damaging to the hair. If your hair feels dry, brittle, and is breaking easily, it’s a sign that your highlights have caused significant damage.
Bleach works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the lightening agents to penetrate the hair shaft and dissolve the melanin. This process can weaken the hair structure, making it more susceptible to damage from heat styling, environmental factors, and even everyday brushing.
Essential Tools and Products for At-Home Correction
Before you start, gather the necessary tools and products. Having everything on hand will make the process smoother and more efficient.
- Toner: Toner is a crucial product for neutralizing unwanted brassy or orange tones. It contains pigments that counteract these warm hues, leaving your highlights looking cooler and more natural.
- Developer: Toner typically needs to be mixed with a developer. A low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) is usually sufficient for toning highlights.
- Color-Depositing Shampoo and Conditioner: These products contain pigments that can help maintain your desired tone between toning sessions. Blue or purple shampoos are excellent for combating brassiness.
- Hair Masks and Deep Conditioners: Repairing damage and restoring moisture is essential after highlighting. Look for masks containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, and shea butter.
- Protein Treatments: If your hair is severely damaged and breaking, protein treatments can help strengthen the hair shaft. Use these sparingly, as overuse can lead to brittleness.
- Applicator Brush and Bowl: These are necessary for mixing and applying toner or hair dye.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from staining.
- Old Towel: Cover your shoulders to prevent staining your clothes.
- Clips: Sectioning your hair properly is crucial for even application.
- Mirror: Use a handheld mirror to check the back of your head.
Fixing Brassy or Orange Highlights: Toning and Color Correction
Toning is your best friend when it comes to neutralizing brassy or orange highlights. Here’s how to do it:
Choosing the Right Toner
The color wheel is your guide. To counteract orange tones, use a blue-based toner. For yellow tones, use a purple-based toner. Many toners are labeled specifically for brass reduction. Read product descriptions carefully.
The Toning Process: Step-by-Step
- Prepare Your Hair: Make sure your hair is clean and dry. Shampoo your hair and skip the conditioner.
- Mix the Toner: Follow the instructions on your toner package. Typically, you’ll mix the toner with a developer in a 1:2 ratio (toner to developer).
- Apply the Toner: Using an applicator brush, apply the toner to your highlighted sections, starting at the roots. Work quickly and evenly.
- Process the Toner: Leave the toner on for the recommended time, usually 15-30 minutes. Keep a close eye on your hair and check the color frequently. Don’t exceed the recommended processing time.
- Rinse and Condition: Rinse the toner thoroughly with cool water. Apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture.
Using Color-Depositing Shampoo and Conditioner
Blue or purple shampoo and conditioner can help maintain your toner between toning sessions. Use these products once or twice a week to keep brassiness at bay.
Correcting Highlights That Are Too Light
If your highlights are too light, you have a few options:
Using a Demi-Permanent Dye
A demi-permanent dye that is close to your natural hair color can help tone down the highlights and blend them more seamlessly. Choose a shade that is one or two levels darker than your natural color.
Applying a Hair Glaze
A hair glaze adds shine and subtle color. It can help tone down overly light highlights without the commitment of a permanent or demi-permanent dye.
Lowlighting
Adding lowlights, which are darker strands of hair, can create more dimension and help balance out overly light highlights. This is best left to a professional but can be attempted at home with careful application.
Addressing Uneven or Patchy Highlights
Fixing uneven highlights requires a strategic approach:
Spot Treating with Toner or Dye
Identify the areas that are too light or too dark. Use a small brush to carefully apply toner or dye to these areas, blending them with the surrounding hair.
Blending Techniques: Root Smudging or Shadow Root
Creating a shadow root, or a slightly darker root area, can help blend highlights and make them appear more natural. You can achieve this using a root smudge kit or by carefully applying a demi-permanent dye to the roots.
Consulting a Professional
If the unevenness is severe, it’s best to seek professional help. A stylist can assess the damage and recommend the best course of action.
Repairing Damaged Hair After Highlighting
Highlighting, especially with bleach, can leave your hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. Repairing the damage is crucial for maintaining healthy, beautiful hair.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week to replenish moisture and restore elasticity. Look for products containing ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, and coconut oil.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help strengthen the hair shaft and reduce breakage. Use these sparingly, as overuse can lead to brittleness. Follow the instructions carefully.
Leave-In Conditioners and Oils
Apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to damp hair after washing to provide extra moisture and protection.
Heat Styling Restrictions
Limit your use of heat styling tools, such as straighteners, curling irons, and hair dryers. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft.
Preventing Future Highlighting Disasters
Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips for preventing future highlighting mistakes:
Do a Strand Test
Before applying any product to your entire head of hair, do a strand test to see how your hair will react. This will help you avoid unexpected results.
Use the Right Developer Volume
Developer volume determines how much the bleach will lift your hair. Lower volumes (10 or 20) are gentler and less likely to cause damage.
Follow Instructions Carefully
Read and follow the instructions on all products carefully. Don’t leave the bleach on for longer than recommended.
Section Your Hair Properly
Sectioning your hair properly is crucial for even application. Use clips to keep the sections separate.
Consider Professional Help
If you’re unsure about highlighting your hair at home, consider seeking professional help. A stylist can provide expert advice and ensure you get the results you want.
Choose High-Quality Products
Invest in high-quality highlighting kits and toning products. Cheaper products can often contain harsh chemicals that can damage your hair.
Fixing highlighted hair at home is possible with the right knowledge, tools, and products. Remember to be patient, assess the damage carefully, and follow instructions precisely. With a little effort, you can achieve beautiful, healthy-looking highlights without breaking the bank.
What are the most common mistakes people make when trying to fix highlighted hair at home?
One of the biggest mistakes is misdiagnosing the problem. Often, people assume their highlights are brassy when they’re actually just faded and dull. Using the wrong toning product or leaving it on for too long can exacerbate the issue, leading to uneven color or even a green tinge. It’s crucial to accurately identify the specific problem before attempting any correction.
Another frequent error is using overly harsh or permanent dyes to fix highlights. This can result in a color that’s far too dark or drastically different from the intended shade. It’s almost always better to opt for temporary solutions like color-depositing shampoos, conditioners, or glosses, which offer more control and are less damaging to the hair.
My highlights have turned brassy. What’s the best way to neutralize the yellow tones?
The most effective way to neutralize brassy yellow tones is with a purple shampoo or conditioner. These products contain violet pigments that counteract the yellow, leaving your highlights looking brighter and cooler. Start by using the product once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency if needed, and always follow the product’s instructions carefully.
For more persistent brassiness, consider a purple toning gloss. These glosses deposit a stronger concentration of purple pigment and can be applied at home for a more noticeable effect. However, it’s important to choose a toner that’s specifically designed for your hair color and to perform a strand test before applying it to your entire head to avoid over-toning.
My highlights are too light and look washed out. How can I add warmth and depth back into my hair?
To add warmth and depth back into overly light highlights, consider using a gold or honey-toned glaze or gloss. These products will gently deposit warm pigments onto your hair, creating a more natural and dimensional look. Be sure to choose a shade that complements your existing base color and follow the product instructions closely to avoid unwanted results.
Another option is to use a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner with warm undertones. These products are less intense than glazes or glosses and can be used more frequently to gradually build up warmth and depth. Look for products specifically formulated for blonde or highlighted hair and consider doing a strand test first to ensure the color is right for you.
How do I fix uneven or patchy highlights at home?
Addressing uneven or patchy highlights can be tricky at home, but a color-depositing mask can often help. Choose a shade that closely matches your base color or a slightly darker shade than your lightest highlights. Apply the mask evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas that are too light or patchy. This will help to blend the highlights and create a more uniform look.
If the unevenness is more severe, consider using a root touch-up spray or powder that matches your base color. This can help to conceal the patchy areas and create the illusion of more even highlights. Alternatively, seek professional help from a colorist who can assess the situation and recommend the best course of action. They may be able to add more highlights strategically to balance the color or use a lowlight technique to create more depth.
My hair is damaged after getting highlights. What can I do to restore its health?
Prioritize deep conditioning treatments to restore moisture and strengthen damaged hair. Look for masks containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter. Apply a deep conditioner once or twice a week, leaving it on for the recommended time or even longer for deeper penetration. Using heat, like a warm towel or shower cap, can enhance the absorption of the treatment.
Reduce heat styling and use heat protectant products whenever you use heat tools. Limit the use of blow dryers, flat irons, and curling irons. Air drying is the gentlest option. Also, avoid harsh chemicals like sulfates and alcohol in your shampoos and styling products. Gentle, hydrating products will help repair and protect your highlighted hair, promoting overall health and shine.
How can I prevent my highlights from fading or turning brassy in the first place?
Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners formulated for color-treated hair. Sulfates can strip away hair color, causing it to fade quickly. Color-safe products are designed to be gentler and help maintain the vibrancy of your highlights. Additionally, consider using a clarifying shampoo occasionally to remove buildup that can dull the color.
Protect your hair from the sun’s UV rays, which can cause highlights to fade and turn brassy. Wear a hat when spending time outdoors, especially during peak sunlight hours. You can also use hair products that contain UV filters. Regular trims will also help keep your hair healthy and prevent split ends, which can make highlights appear dull and uneven.
What’s the best way to do a strand test before applying any color-correcting product?
Choose a discreet section of hair for your strand test, preferably at the nape of your neck or behind your ear. Isolate a small amount of hair, about an inch wide, and apply the color-correcting product according to the instructions. Make sure the isolated hair is fully saturated with the product.
Allow the product to process for the recommended time, then rinse thoroughly and dry the strand. Evaluate the color and condition of the strand in good lighting. If you’re happy with the results, you can proceed with applying the product to your entire head. If not, adjust the processing time or choose a different product until you achieve the desired outcome.