The world of hair coloring can be both exciting and intimidating, especially when you’re trying to achieve that perfect shade at home. One of the most common questions that arises is whether you can substitute a 20 volume developer for a 10 volume developer. Understanding the role of developer and the potential consequences of such a substitution is crucial for achieving your desired results and maintaining healthy hair. Let’s delve into the details.
Understanding Hair Developer: The Basics
Hair developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, is an essential component in the hair coloring process. It works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft. It also lightens the natural pigment of your hair, creating a base for the new color to deposit. The volume number indicates the strength of the developer, with higher volumes representing a greater concentration of hydrogen peroxide.
A 10 volume developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide. It is considered a low-volume developer, primarily used for depositing color, toning, or achieving subtle lifts.
A 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. It is a more versatile option, capable of lifting the hair one to two levels and effectively covering gray hair.
The Role of Volume in Hair Coloring
The volume of developer you choose significantly impacts the outcome of your hair coloring process. It determines how much the hair is lightened and how well the color penetrates. Choosing the right volume is essential for achieving the desired shade and minimizing damage to your hair.
Using a developer that is too weak might not provide enough lift or color deposit, leading to unsatisfactory results. Conversely, using a developer that is too strong can cause excessive damage, dryness, and potentially unwanted color changes.
When Can You Consider Using 20 Volume Instead of 10?
While substituting developers isn’t always recommended, there are specific scenarios where using a 20 volume developer instead of a 10 volume might be acceptable, or even beneficial. However, it’s crucial to proceed with caution and understand the potential implications.
Covering Stubborn Gray Hair
Gray hair is notoriously resistant to color. The cuticle of gray hair is often tighter and less porous, making it difficult for color to penetrate effectively. In these cases, a 20 volume developer can be more effective at opening the cuticle and allowing the color to fully saturate the hair.
If you’re using a demi-permanent color to blend away gray, a 10 volume might not be sufficient. A 20 volume developer could help provide better coverage and longevity, but be aware that it will likely provide some lift to your natural hair as well.
Achieving a Slightly Lighter Shade
If you’re aiming for a shade that is only slightly lighter than your current hair color, a 20 volume developer might be used with a toner or dye. This allows for a subtle lift while depositing the desired tone or color.
It’s important to note that using a 20 volume developer will lift your natural hair color to some degree. If you’re only looking to deposit color without any lightening, a 10 volume developer is the safer option.
Refreshing Color with a Gloss
When refreshing faded color or adding shine with a gloss, a 20 volume developer can be used to slightly open the cuticle and allow the gloss to penetrate more effectively. This is often used to revitalize color between full coloring sessions.
However, it’s crucial to use a gentle formula and monitor the processing time carefully to avoid over-processing and potential damage. Always perform a strand test before applying the gloss to your entire head.
The Potential Risks of Using a Higher Volume Developer
Substituting a 20 volume developer for a 10 volume developer isn’t without its risks. It’s important to be aware of the potential negative consequences before making this substitution.
Increased Hair Damage
The primary risk of using a higher volume developer is increased damage to the hair. The stronger concentration of hydrogen peroxide can weaken the hair shaft, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends.
Over-processing can also make the hair more porous, leading to further damage and difficulty retaining moisture. It is crucial to assess your hair’s health and porosity before considering a stronger developer.
Unwanted Lightening
A 20 volume developer will lift the natural pigment of your hair, even if you’re primarily trying to deposit color. This can result in a lighter shade than intended, especially if you’re starting with a dark base color.
If you’re trying to maintain your current hair color or only want to deposit color without any lightening, using a 20 volume developer can lead to unexpected and undesirable results.
Uneven Color Results
Using a higher volume developer can lead to uneven color results, especially if your hair is already damaged or has varying levels of porosity. The developer might penetrate some areas more quickly than others, resulting in patchy or inconsistent color.
It is always recommended to perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react to the developer and color mixture before applying it to your entire head.
Scalp Irritation
The stronger concentration of hydrogen peroxide in a 20 volume developer can cause scalp irritation, especially for individuals with sensitive skin. This can manifest as redness, itching, or even burning sensations.
If you experience any discomfort during the coloring process, rinse your hair immediately and avoid using a stronger developer in the future. Always wear gloves and avoid applying the developer directly to your scalp.
Tips for Safely Using a 20 Volume Developer
If you decide to use a 20 volume developer instead of a 10 volume, it’s crucial to take precautions to minimize the risks and achieve the best possible results.
Perform a Strand Test
A strand test is essential to assess how your hair will react to the developer and color mixture. Apply the mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair and monitor the results. This will help you determine the processing time and whether the 20 volume developer is appropriate for your hair.
Monitor the Processing Time
Keep a close eye on the processing time and avoid leaving the developer on your hair for longer than recommended. Over-processing can lead to significant damage and unwanted color changes. Start checking the color development a few minutes before the recommended time and adjust accordingly.
Use a Deep Conditioner
After coloring your hair, use a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and help repair any damage. This will help restore the health and vitality of your hair. Look for conditioners that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, and shea butter.
Protect Your Hair
Protect your hair from heat styling and environmental damage. Use heat protectant sprays before using styling tools and avoid excessive sun exposure. Consider using hair masks and leave-in conditioners to maintain moisture and protect your hair from breakage.
Consider Consulting a Professional
If you’re unsure about using a 20 volume developer instead of a 10 volume, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the appropriate developer and color for your specific needs.
Alternatives to Using a Higher Volume Developer
If you’re concerned about the potential risks of using a 20 volume developer, there are alternative methods you can try to achieve your desired results.
Pre-Softening Gray Hair
Pre-softening is a technique used to open the hair cuticle and make gray hair more receptive to color. This involves applying a pre-softening solution to the gray hair before applying the color. This allows for better color penetration without the need for a stronger developer.
Using a Color Booster
Color boosters are additives that can enhance the color deposit of hair dyes. Adding a color booster to your dye mixture can improve gray coverage and intensify the color without the need for a higher volume developer.
Repeated Applications
Instead of using a stronger developer, you can try applying the color multiple times. This allows the color to gradually build up and saturate the hair without causing excessive damage.
Conclusion: Making the Right Choice
Deciding whether to substitute a 20 volume developer for a 10 volume depends on your specific hair type, desired results, and understanding of the potential risks. While a 20 volume developer can be effective for covering gray hair or achieving a subtle lift, it’s crucial to proceed with caution and take precautions to minimize damage. Always prioritize the health of your hair and consult with a professional if you’re unsure about the best course of action. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair! Choosing the right developer is a step to reaching your hair goals.
Can I use 20 volume developer instead of 10 if I want faster results?
While using 20 volume developer might seem like a shortcut to quicker lightening or color processing, it’s generally not recommended to substitute it for 10 volume developer solely for that purpose. The stronger oxidizing power of 20 volume lifts the hair cuticle faster, potentially leading to uneven color deposit, increased damage, and a less predictable final shade. Remember that color formulation is a precise science, and altering a key component like the developer can drastically change the outcome, particularly if the original formula was designed for a lower volume.
Instead of focusing on speed, prioritize the health of your hair and the accuracy of your color. If you need faster processing, consult with a professional colorist. They can assess your hair type and history, and recommend alternative techniques or color formulations that achieve your desired results without compromising the integrity of your hair. Sometimes, a different color line or application method might be more suitable than simply increasing the developer volume.
What are the risks of using 20 volume developer when 10 is recommended?
The primary risk is hair damage. 20 volume developer lifts the hair cuticle more aggressively than 10 volume. This can lead to dryness, breakage, and increased porosity. Over-processed hair becomes more prone to frizz, split ends, and difficulty holding color in the future. The extent of the damage will depend on your hair’s existing condition and its sensitivity to chemical processing. Fine or damaged hair is particularly vulnerable.
Beyond damage, using a higher volume developer can also result in a less desirable color outcome. The accelerated lifting action might expose unwanted underlying tones, leading to brassiness or a muddy appearance. The color might also fade faster due to the compromised cuticle’s reduced ability to retain pigment. Always err on the side of caution and stick to the recommended developer volume for the specific color formula you’re using.
When is it acceptable to substitute 20 volume for 10 volume developer?
There are limited scenarios where a substitution might be considered, but only with careful consideration and understanding of the potential consequences. One instance is when covering highly resistant gray hair. The increased lifting power of 20 volume can sometimes be necessary to effectively penetrate the cuticle and deposit color into the gray strands. However, this should only be done with a product specifically formulated for gray coverage and after a strand test to assess how your hair reacts.
Another potential (though still risky) scenario is when attempting to lift only one level of color, especially on virgin hair. In this case, 20 volume might achieve the desired lift without excessive damage. However, meticulous monitoring is crucial to avoid over-processing. Generally, it is always best to consult with a professional hairstylist to determine the safest and most effective approach for your hair type and desired color result. They can properly assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action.
How do I perform a strand test to see how my hair reacts to 20 volume developer?
A strand test is crucial before applying any chemical treatment, especially when deviating from recommended instructions. Start by selecting a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, ideally from underneath or near your hairline. Mix a small amount of the color and 20 volume developer according to the color manufacturer’s instructions, noting the exact ratios.
Apply the mixture to the selected strand, thoroughly saturating it. Process the strand for the recommended time specified in the color instructions, or even a few minutes shorter. Rinse the strand thoroughly and observe the color, condition, and overall health of the hair. If the strand feels damaged, looks overly lightened, or doesn’t achieve the desired color, 20 volume is likely too strong and you should stick with 10 volume or consult a professional.
Will using 20 volume instead of 10 damage my hair permanently?
The degree of damage depends on several factors, including your hair’s current health, its texture, and the frequency with which you color it. A single instance of using 20 volume might not cause permanent damage to healthy hair. However, repeated use or application on already damaged hair significantly increases the risk of long-term issues such as breakage, split ends, and irreversible porosity.
Even if the damage isn’t immediately apparent, the cumulative effect of using a stronger developer than necessary can weaken the hair over time. This can lead to chronic dryness, difficulty styling, and a dull appearance. Prioritizing gentle color processing methods and using the appropriate developer volume is crucial for maintaining the long-term health and beauty of your hair.
Does my hair type affect whether I can use 20 volume instead of 10?
Yes, your hair type plays a significant role. Fine, thin, or already damaged hair is much more susceptible to damage from 20 volume developer. These hair types have a more delicate cuticle layer, making them less resistant to the aggressive lifting action of the stronger developer. Coarse or thicker hair can typically withstand more chemical processing, but even then, caution is advised.
The porosity of your hair is also a key factor. Highly porous hair, which absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it easily, is more prone to damage from any chemical treatment. Using a higher volume developer on porous hair can exacerbate the problem, leading to increased dryness and breakage. Regardless of your hair type, a strand test is essential to assess its reaction to 20 volume before applying it to your entire head.
What are the benefits of using 10 volume developer instead of 20?
The primary benefit of 10 volume developer is its gentler action. It opens the hair cuticle more subtly than 20 volume, minimizing damage and preserving the hair’s integrity. This makes it ideal for depositing color without significant lifting, resulting in richer, more vibrant tones, especially when going darker or maintaining an existing color.
Using 10 volume also contributes to longer-lasting color. Because the cuticle is less disrupted, the color molecules are better retained within the hair shaft. This leads to reduced fading and a more consistent color result over time. It’s the preferred choice for toner applications, glosses, and deposit-only color formulas, offering a safer and more reliable way to enhance your hair’s color and shine.