Choosing the right developer volume is paramount to achieving your desired hair color outcome. Whether you’re aiming for subtle highlights, a vibrant all-over color, or tackling stubborn grays, understanding the nuances between 20 and 30 volume developers is essential. The developer is the catalyst that activates the hair dye and opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to penetrate. But selecting the wrong one can lead to unsatisfactory results, hair damage, or both. Let’s dive deep into the differences and help you make the right choice for your hair.
Understanding Developer Basics
Developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, comes in various strengths, usually measured in volumes. The volume number signifies the oxygen releasing power of the developer. Higher volumes release more oxygen, resulting in a greater lifting power and faster processing time. However, this increased strength also brings a higher risk of hair damage if not used correctly.
The Role of Developer in Hair Coloring
The primary role of a developer is to oxidize the hair dye, triggering the color-changing process. Simultaneously, it opens the hair cuticle, the protective outer layer of the hair shaft, allowing the dye molecules to enter. The developer also lightens the natural hair pigment, making room for the new color. The volume of the developer dictates how much lift (lightening) and color deposit occurs. This is why selecting the correct volume is so important to achieve the desired results.
How Developer Volume is Measured
Developer volume is related to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide. For example, a 10 volume developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide, a 20 volume developer contains 6%, a 30 volume developer contains 9%, and so on. The higher the percentage of hydrogen peroxide, the stronger the oxidizing and lifting action. This relationship is key to understanding the difference in their effects on your hair.
20 Volume Developer: The Gentle Option
A 20 volume developer is a popular and versatile choice, known for its gentle lifting action and excellent color deposit. It’s often considered a “universal” developer as it works well for many different hair coloring applications. This developer is a safe and effective option for covering grays, depositing color, and achieving subtle lightening.
Ideal Uses for 20 Volume Developer
20 volume developer is primarily used when you want to deposit color or lift the hair one to two levels. It’s ideal for:
- Gray Coverage: Effectively covers gray hairs while depositing the desired color.
- Depositing Color: Great for going darker or maintaining your current hair color.
- Toning: Works well with toners to neutralize unwanted brassy tones.
- Subtle Highlights: Can be used for subtle highlights or lowlights, offering a more natural look.
- Gentle Processing: Suitable for individuals with sensitive scalps or easily damaged hair.
Benefits of Using 20 Volume Developer
The benefits of using a 20 volume developer include:
- Less Damage: The lower lifting power minimizes the risk of hair damage compared to higher volume developers.
- Gentle on Scalp: Less likely to cause scalp irritation or sensitivity.
- Accurate Color Deposit: Ensures accurate and predictable color results when depositing color or toning.
- Versatile: Can be used for a variety of hair coloring techniques and purposes.
- Suitable for Fine Hair: A safer option for fine or delicate hair that is prone to breakage.
Limitations of Using 20 Volume Developer
While versatile, 20 volume developer has its limitations:
- Limited Lifting Power: May not be strong enough to lift the hair more than one to two levels.
- Not Ideal for Darker Hair: It may not provide enough lift to achieve vibrant color changes on dark hair.
- May Require Multiple Processes: To achieve a significant color change, you may need to undergo multiple coloring sessions.
30 Volume Developer: The Stronger Option
A 30 volume developer is a stronger option designed for more significant lightening and color changes. It lifts the hair more effectively than a 20 volume developer, making it suitable for achieving brighter colors and more dramatic transformations. However, it’s essential to use it cautiously as the higher lifting power can also increase the risk of hair damage.
Ideal Uses for 30 Volume Developer
30 volume developer is generally used when you want to lift the hair two to three levels. It’s ideal for:
- Significant Lightening: Achieves a more noticeable lightening effect, perfect for going several shades lighter.
- Lifting Darker Hair: Effective for lifting darker hair colors to achieve desired lighter shades.
- Highlights and Balayage: Creates brighter and more defined highlights or balayage effects.
- Vibrant Color Changes: Ideal for achieving vibrant and noticeable color changes.
- Covering Resistant Grays: Can be used to provide more lift for stubborn gray hairs.
Benefits of Using 30 Volume Developer
The benefits of using a 30 volume developer include:
- Faster Processing Time: The higher lifting power reduces the processing time compared to lower volume developers.
- Increased Lightening: Lifts the hair more effectively, allowing for greater color changes.
- Effective on Darker Hair: Can lift darker hair colors to achieve the desired lightness for vibrant colors.
- Stronger Gray Coverage: Provides better coverage for resistant gray hairs.
Limitations of Using 30 Volume Developer
The limitations of using a 30 volume developer are:
- Higher Risk of Damage: The increased lifting power can cause more damage to the hair if not used correctly.
- Potential for Scalp Irritation: More likely to cause scalp irritation or sensitivity, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.
- Greater Risk of Over-Processing: Can lead to over-processed, dry, and brittle hair if left on for too long.
- Less Predictable Color Deposit: Due to the stronger lifting action, the final color result can be less predictable.
Comparing 20 and 30 Volume: A Side-by-Side Look
To further clarify the differences, let’s compare 20 and 30 volume developers side-by-side.
| Feature | 20 Volume Developer | 30 Volume Developer |
| ——————- | —————————————————- | ——————————————————- |
| Lifting Power | Lifts 1-2 levels | Lifts 2-3 levels |
| Hydrogen Peroxide % | 6% | 9% |
| Damage Potential | Lower | Higher |
| Scalp Irritation | Less Likely | More Likely |
| Ideal Uses | Gray coverage, depositing color, subtle highlights | Significant lightening, vibrant colors, darker hair lifting |
| Processing Time | Longer | Shorter |
This table provides a clear overview of the key differences between the two developers. Always consider your hair’s condition, color history, and desired outcome before making a decision.
Making the Right Choice: Factors to Consider
Choosing the right developer volume depends on several factors related to your hair and your desired outcome. Here are some crucial factors to consider:
Hair Type and Condition
Fine, damaged, or chemically treated hair is more susceptible to damage and should be treated with care. A 20 volume developer is usually the safer choice for these hair types. If your hair is thick, coarse, and healthy, you might be able to handle a 30 volume developer, but proceed with caution. Always perform a strand test to assess the hair’s reaction.
Desired Color Outcome
If you’re aiming for a subtle color change or simply want to deposit color, a 20 volume developer is sufficient. For more significant lightening and vibrant color changes, a 30 volume developer may be necessary. However, remember that higher volumes increase the risk of damage, so carefully consider the trade-offs.
Hair Color History
If your hair has been previously colored or chemically treated, it may be more porous and prone to damage. In such cases, a 20 volume developer is often the safer option. If you’re unsure about your hair’s reaction, consult with a professional stylist.
Gray Hair Percentage
For covering gray hair, a 20 volume developer usually suffices, especially if the gray hair is not resistant. However, if you have a high percentage of stubborn gray hairs, a 30 volume developer may be necessary to lift the cuticle and allow the color to penetrate effectively.
Strand Test: Your Best Friend
Before applying any developer and color mixture to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This will allow you to assess how your hair reacts to the mixture, gauge the lifting power, and determine the processing time. The strand test is an indispensable tool for preventing unwanted surprises and minimizing potential damage.
Application Tips for Safe and Effective Coloring
Regardless of which developer volume you choose, following proper application techniques is crucial for achieving optimal results and minimizing damage.
Protect Your Skin
Always wear gloves to protect your hands from staining and irritation. Apply a barrier cream or petroleum jelly along your hairline and ears to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
Mix Correctly
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the developer and hair color. Using the correct ratio is essential for achieving the desired color and preventing damage. A scale can be useful to ensure accuracy.
Apply Evenly
Apply the color mixture evenly, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Use a brush to ensure thorough coverage.
Process Time
Adhere to the recommended processing time specified by the manufacturer. Over-processing can lead to damage, while under-processing may result in unsatisfactory color. Regularly check the color development during the processing time.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse the hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. This helps to remove all traces of the dye and developer.
Condition and Moisturize
After rinsing, apply a deep conditioner or moisturizing treatment to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s health. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner for future washes.
Seek Professional Advice
If you’re unsure about which developer volume to use or how to apply the color mixture properly, seek advice from a professional hair stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, color history, and desired outcome, and recommend the best course of action.
Choosing between a 20 and 30 volume developer is a key decision in your hair coloring journey. Careful consideration of your hair type, desired outcome, and the potential risks and benefits of each option will lead you to a successful and beautiful result. Remember to prioritize hair health and safety above all else.
What is the primary difference between 20 and 30 volume developers?
The main difference lies in their hydrogen peroxide concentration. A 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, while a 30 volume developer contains 9%. This percentage dictates the lifting power – how much the developer can lighten your natural hair color. Higher volume means more lifting capacity.
Consequently, 30 volume will open the hair cuticle more aggressively and lift the color faster and to a greater degree than 20 volume. This makes 30 volume suitable for achieving more significant color changes or covering resistant gray hair, while 20 volume is ideal for deposit-only color or subtle lightening.
When should I use a 20 volume developer?
A 20 volume developer is best suited for situations where you want to deposit color, achieve a subtle lift, or cover gray hair without a dramatic change. It’s gentle enough for delicate hair and is perfect for toners, glazes, and depositing permanent hair color closer to your natural shade. It helps to open the hair cuticle enough to allow color to penetrate while minimizing damage.
Specifically, consider using 20 volume when you are aiming for a demi-permanent color change, refreshing previously colored hair, or blending away minimal gray hair without a drastic transformation. It’s also the preferred choice for fragile or already processed hair that you don’t want to over-process. This ensures a gentler color application, reducing the risk of damage.
When should I use a 30 volume developer?
Use a 30 volume developer when you need significant lifting power to lighten your hair by two to three levels. This is ideal for achieving vibrant, noticeable color changes or effectively covering stubborn gray hair. It’s also suitable for highlighting and balayage techniques where a strong lift is necessary.
However, remember that a 30 volume developer is stronger and can potentially cause more damage to the hair compared to a 20 volume. Therefore, it should be used cautiously and ideally by those with experience or under the guidance of a professional colorist, especially on fine or damaged hair. Proper timing and monitoring are crucial to prevent over-processing.
Can I use a 30 volume developer if I want to lighten my hair by just one level?
While technically possible, using a 30 volume developer to lighten your hair by only one level is generally not recommended. The higher lifting power can lead to unnecessary damage and dryness, as it opens the hair cuticle more aggressively than necessary for a subtle change. The risk of unwanted brassiness is also higher.
Instead, a 20 volume developer would be a more suitable choice for lifting only one level. It provides sufficient lift while minimizing the potential for damage and brassiness. This gentler approach allows for better control over the final color result and helps maintain the overall health of your hair.
How do I choose between 20 and 30 volume developers for gray coverage?
The choice between 20 and 30 volume developers for gray coverage depends on the amount and resistance of your gray hair, as well as the desired color result. If you have less than 50% gray hair and are aiming for a color close to your natural shade, a 20 volume developer is usually sufficient. It provides enough lift to open the cuticle and deposit the color effectively.
However, if you have more than 50% gray hair, particularly if it’s coarse or resistant, a 30 volume developer may be necessary to achieve adequate coverage and prevent the gray from appearing brassy or translucent. The higher volume helps to fully open the cuticle, allowing the color to penetrate and completely saturate the gray strands for a uniform, long-lasting result.
What are the risks of using the wrong volume developer?
Using the wrong volume developer can lead to several undesirable outcomes. If you use too low of a volume, like a 10 when you need a 30, the color might not lift enough, resulting in a muddy or uneven tone, particularly on darker hair. This could also mean gray hair isn’t fully covered.
Conversely, using too high of a volume, like a 30 when a 20 would suffice, can cause unnecessary damage, dryness, and breakage. It can also lead to brassiness, especially in darker hair, or create an uneven or patchy color result due to over-processing certain areas. Therefore, carefully assessing your hair type, condition, and desired color outcome is crucial before selecting a developer.
Can I mix 20 and 30 volume developers to create a 25 volume?
While it might seem logical to mix 20 and 30 volume developers to achieve a 25 volume, it’s generally not recommended unless you have a very precise measuring system and thorough understanding of hair chemistry. Even with careful measurements, the mixing process might not be perfectly consistent, leading to uneven developer strength in different parts of the mixture. This inconsistency can affect the final color result, potentially causing uneven lifting or color deposit.
Furthermore, professional hair color developers are formulated with specific stabilizers and buffers designed to work at their intended concentrations. Altering these concentrations by mixing might disrupt the developer’s performance, potentially leading to unpredictable or less effective results. It’s always best to stick with commercially available developers at their labeled volumes to ensure consistent and predictable color outcomes.