Achieving your dream hair color often involves the strategic use of hair bleach. Among the various strengths available, 20 volume bleach is a popular choice due to its relatively gentle nature. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about using 20 volume bleach safely and effectively, from understanding its properties to mastering the application process.
Understanding 20 Volume Bleach
20 volume bleach refers to a hydrogen peroxide solution with a 6% concentration. The “volume” indicates the amount of oxygen released, influencing the lifting power of the bleach. Compared to higher volumes like 30 or 40, 20 volume bleach lifts color more slowly, making it a suitable option for subtle changes, root touch-ups, or when working with delicate hair.
Gentle Lifting Action: Its lower concentration minimizes damage, making it ideal for fine or fragile hair.
Slower Processing Time: Expect a longer processing time compared to stronger developers. This allows for greater control over the lightening process.
Suitable for Specific Hair Types: Best for light to medium brown hair aiming for a few shades lighter or for maintaining blonde hair.
Who Should Use 20 Volume Bleach?
Determining if 20 volume bleach is right for you depends on your hair type, condition, and desired results.
Ideal Candidates
Individuals with fine, thin, or already damaged hair benefit from the gentler lifting action of 20 volume bleach. This reduces the risk of breakage and excessive dryness.
Those seeking to lift their hair only a few shades lighter. If you’re starting with dark brown or black hair and want to achieve a platinum blonde, 20 volume bleach will likely not be strong enough.
People with sensitive scalps. The lower chemical concentration reduces the potential for irritation and burning sensations.
Individuals performing root touch-ups. The precise control offered by 20 volume bleach minimizes the risk of over-processing previously lightened hair.
When to Choose a Different Volume
If you have very dark hair (dark brown or black) and want to achieve a significantly lighter shade (such as platinum blonde or ash blonde), a higher volume developer (30 or 40) might be necessary. However, use these volumes with extreme caution, as they can cause significant damage, especially if misused.
If you have thick, coarse hair that is resistant to lightening, a higher volume developer may also be required. Again, prioritize hair health and consider multiple sessions with lower volumes over one aggressive bleaching session.
Essential Tools and Products
Before you begin, gather all the necessary supplies. Having everything within reach will streamline the process and minimize the risk of mistakes.
Bleach Powder: Choose a high-quality bleach powder specifically designed for hair lightening.
20 Volume Developer: Ensure the developer is fresh and properly stored.
Mixing Bowl: Use a non-metallic bowl to prevent chemical reactions.
Application Brush: A tint brush allows for precise and even application.
Gloves: Protect your hands from chemical burns and staining.
Towel: Use an old towel to protect your clothing.
Hair Clips: Sectioning clips help to keep your hair organized during application.
Timer: A timer is crucial for monitoring the processing time and preventing over-processing.
Shampoo and Conditioner: Use a color-safe shampoo and a deep conditioner to hydrate and nourish your hair after bleaching.
Toner (Optional): Toner is used to neutralize unwanted brassy or yellow tones after bleaching.
Preparing for the Bleaching Process
Proper preparation is key to a successful and safe bleaching experience.
Strand Test
Always perform a strand test before applying bleach to your entire head. This allows you to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. Apply a small amount of the bleach mixture to a hidden strand of hair and check it every few minutes.
Protecting Your Skin and Clothing
Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or coconut oil along your hairline and ears to protect your skin from irritation and staining. Wear an old t-shirt or drape a towel over your shoulders to protect your clothing.
Sectioning Your Hair
Divide your hair into four sections using hair clips. This ensures even and thorough application of the bleach. Start by parting your hair down the middle, then divide each section in half again, from ear to ear.
Mixing the Bleach
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when mixing the bleach powder and developer. A typical ratio is 1:2 (one part bleach powder to two parts developer), but this may vary depending on the brand.
Consistency: Aim for a smooth, creamy consistency that is easy to apply but not too runny.
Mixing Thoroughly: Ensure the bleach powder is fully dissolved in the developer to avoid uneven lightening.
Fresh Mixture: Mix the bleach immediately before application, as its potency diminishes over time.
Applying the Bleach
Apply the bleach evenly and thoroughly, starting at the roots (if you haven’t bleached your hair before) or focusing on the regrowth (for touch-ups).
Application Technique
Use the tint brush to apply the bleach mixture to small sections of hair, working from the roots to the ends. Ensure each strand is fully saturated with the bleach. Avoid overlapping bleach on previously lightened hair, as this can cause damage and breakage.
Root Application
When touching up your roots, apply the bleach carefully to the new growth, avoiding contact with the already lightened hair. The heat from your scalp will accelerate the lightening process, so monitor the roots closely.
Even Distribution
Work quickly and efficiently to ensure even distribution of the bleach. If necessary, use your fingers (with gloves on) to massage the bleach into your hair and ensure thorough coverage.
Monitoring the Bleaching Process
Check your hair regularly (every 5-10 minutes) during the processing time. This allows you to monitor the color change and prevent over-processing.
Visual Inspection: Observe the color of your hair and compare it to your desired shade.
Strand Test (Again): If you are unsure, perform another strand test to check the progress.
Maximum Processing Time: Do not leave the bleach on for longer than the maximum recommended time (typically 50 minutes, but always refer to the product instructions).
Rinsing and Toning
Once your hair has reached the desired shade, rinse it thoroughly with cool water.
Rinsing Thoroughly
Ensure all traces of bleach are removed from your hair. Lingering bleach can continue to process and cause damage.
Shampoo and Condition
Wash your hair with a color-safe shampoo to remove any remaining residue. Follow with a deep conditioner to hydrate and nourish your hair. Leave the conditioner on for several minutes for optimal results.
Toning (Optional)
If your hair has unwanted brassy or yellow tones, apply a toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Toner neutralizes these tones and helps you achieve your desired hair color. Choose a toner that complements your desired shade, such as purple toner for blonde hair or blue toner for brunette hair.
Post-Bleach Care
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining the health and appearance of your bleached hair.
Hydration
Bleaching can dry out your hair, so it’s important to replenish moisture regularly. Use deep conditioners, hair masks, and leave-in conditioners to keep your hair hydrated.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help to strengthen and repair damaged hair. Use them sparingly, as excessive protein can make your hair brittle.
Heat Protection
Avoid using heat styling tools as much as possible, as they can further damage bleached hair. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage. This will help to keep your hair healthy and strong.
Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are formulated to be gentle and prevent color fading.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with careful planning, issues can arise during the bleaching process.
Uneven Lightening
This can occur if the bleach is not applied evenly or if some areas of your hair are more resistant to lightening. To correct uneven lightening, you may need to reapply bleach to the darker areas, but be cautious not to over-process the already lightened hair.
Brassy or Yellow Tones
These are common after bleaching and can be neutralized with toner. Choose a toner that complements your desired shade and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Dry or Damaged Hair
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and damage. Use deep conditioners, hair masks, and protein treatments to restore moisture and strength.
Scalp Irritation
If you experience scalp irritation during bleaching, rinse your hair immediately and apply a soothing scalp treatment. Avoid bleaching your hair again until your scalp has fully recovered.
Safety Precautions
Bleaching involves chemicals, so safety should always be a top priority.
Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
Skin Protection: Wear gloves and protect your skin with petroleum jelly or coconut oil.
Eye Protection: Avoid getting bleach in your eyes. If contact occurs, rinse immediately with water and seek medical attention.
Patch Test: Always perform a patch test 48 hours before bleaching to check for allergic reactions.
Follow Instructions: Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Storage: Store bleach products in a cool, dry place, away from children and pets.
Alternatives to Bleach
If you’re hesitant to use bleach, consider these gentler alternatives:
High-Lift Dyes: These dyes can lift your hair color a few shades without the harshness of bleach.
Lemon Juice: Applying lemon juice to your hair and exposing it to sunlight can gradually lighten it.
Honey and Cinnamon Mask: This natural mask can lighten your hair slightly and add shine.
Achieving Your Dream Hair Color
Using 20 volume bleach can be a safe and effective way to lighten your hair, provided you follow the instructions carefully and prioritize hair health. Remember to perform a strand test, protect your skin and clothing, apply the bleach evenly, and monitor the processing time. With proper aftercare, you can maintain healthy, beautiful hair while achieving your desired color.
What hair colors can 20 volume bleach effectively lift?
20 volume bleach is generally effective for lifting natural hair colors that are light to medium brown. It can typically lift one to two levels, making it suitable for achieving highlights, subtle balayage, or lightening previously dyed hair that isn’t too dark. It’s a good choice for individuals with finer hair or those seeking a gentler lightening process.
However, if you have very dark brown or black hair, or if you’re aiming for a significant color change like going from dark brown to platinum blonde, 20 volume bleach may not provide sufficient lift. In these cases, a higher volume developer, such as 30 or 40 volume, might be necessary. Always consider your hair’s health and consult a professional stylist for the best approach, especially when dealing with significant color changes.
How long should I leave 20 volume bleach on my hair?
The processing time for 20 volume bleach varies depending on your hair’s texture, starting color, and desired level of lift. Generally, it can take anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes. It’s crucial to continuously monitor your hair’s condition and color during processing to prevent damage.
Avoid exceeding the maximum processing time of 45 minutes, even if your hair hasn’t reached the desired lightness. Overprocessing can lead to dryness, breakage, and irreversible damage. If your hair hasn’t lifted enough after 45 minutes, it’s better to rinse, condition, and consider a second bleaching session a few weeks later, prioritizing hair health.
What is the ideal mixing ratio of bleach powder to 20 volume developer?
The recommended mixing ratio of bleach powder to 20 volume developer is typically 1:2. This means for every one part of bleach powder, you would use two parts of 20 volume developer. This ratio helps create a smooth, consistent mixture that is easy to apply and provides optimal lift.
However, it’s important to always refer to the specific instructions provided by the bleach powder manufacturer. Some brands may recommend slightly different ratios to achieve the best results with their product. Following the manufacturer’s instructions ensures you’re using the correct proportions for the specific formula and minimizing the risk of damage.
How can I minimize damage when using 20 volume bleach?
To minimize damage when using 20 volume bleach, start with healthy, unwashed hair. The natural oils act as a barrier, protecting your hair during the bleaching process. Avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching.
Additionally, incorporate a bond-building treatment like Olaplex or similar product into your bleaching process. These treatments help to strengthen the hair’s structure and reduce breakage. Also, deep condition your hair regularly in the weeks following bleaching to restore moisture and elasticity.
Can I use 20 volume bleach on my scalp?
Using 20 volume bleach directly on your scalp can cause irritation, burning, and even chemical burns, especially if you have sensitive skin. While it’s sometimes done for root touch-ups to achieve even coloring, it requires careful application and monitoring.
If you choose to bleach your roots with 20 volume developer, apply a protective barrier like coconut oil or petroleum jelly around the hairline to minimize contact with the skin. Continuously monitor for any signs of irritation or discomfort, and rinse immediately if you experience any burning or itching. Consider using a lower volume developer or consulting a professional stylist for scalp applications.
What aftercare steps are essential after bleaching with 20 volume?
After bleaching with 20 volume, it’s crucial to replenish moisture and repair any potential damage. Start by using a color-safe, moisturizing shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for bleached or chemically treated hair. Avoid harsh sulfates, which can strip the hair of its natural oils and lead to dryness.
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your routine at least once a week to restore hydration and improve hair elasticity. Consider using protein treatments sparingly to strengthen the hair shaft, but avoid overdoing it, as too much protein can lead to brittleness. Protect your hair from heat styling and environmental damage by using heat protectant sprays and leave-in conditioners with UV protection.
How does 20 volume bleach compare to other developers like 10, 30, and 40 volume?
20 volume developer provides a moderate lift compared to other developers. 10 volume offers the least lift and is primarily used for depositing color or performing gentle toning. It’s the gentlest option but provides minimal lightening. On the other hand, 30 volume lifts faster and more effectively than 20 volume, making it suitable for more significant color changes, but carries a higher risk of damage.
40 volume is the strongest developer and lifts the most levels, but it’s also the most damaging and should only be used by experienced professionals. It’s crucial to select the appropriate developer based on your hair’s condition, desired level of lift, and experience level. 20 volume strikes a balance between effective lightening and minimizing potential damage for many hair types.