Bleaching your hair at home can be a daunting task, especially when it comes to timing. Leaving the bleach on for too long can cause serious damage, while not leaving it on long enough may not achieve the desired level of lift. Understanding the factors that influence the processing time of 20 volume bleach is crucial for achieving beautiful, healthy, and brightened hair. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of how long to leave 20 volume bleach in your hair, along with essential tips for safe and effective bleaching.
Understanding 20 Volume Bleach
20 volume developer is a common choice for at-home bleaching. It is a hydrogen peroxide solution that, when mixed with bleach powder, lifts the natural pigment from your hair. The “20 volume” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, which is 6%. This strength is considered relatively mild compared to higher volumes like 30 or 40, making it a safer option for those bleaching their hair at home. However, its gentler nature also means it requires a longer processing time to achieve significant lightening.
What Does 20 Volume Bleach Do?
20 volume bleach primarily opens the hair cuticle and allows the bleaching agent to penetrate the hair shaft. This process oxidizes the melanin (the pigment responsible for your hair color), effectively lightening the hair. The degree of lift you achieve depends on several factors, including your natural hair color, the health of your hair, and the duration of the bleaching process. 20 volume is often used for subtle lightening, lifting one or two levels, or for toning purposes.
The Importance of Developer Volume
The volume of the developer directly impacts the speed and intensity of the bleaching process. Higher volumes like 30 or 40 lift the hair color faster but also carry a greater risk of damage. 20 volume offers a more gradual and controlled lift, which is beneficial for minimizing damage, especially for those with fine or fragile hair. It’s always better to err on the side of caution and opt for a lower volume developer when in doubt.
Factors Affecting Bleach Processing Time
Determining the optimal processing time for 20 volume bleach is not an exact science. Several factors come into play, and understanding these variables is critical for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage.
Natural Hair Color
Your starting hair color is a primary determinant of how long the bleach needs to process. Darker hair naturally contains more melanin, requiring a longer processing time to achieve a lighter shade. Someone with light brown hair might achieve their desired lightness faster than someone with dark brown or black hair.
Hair Texture and Condition
Hair texture and condition significantly affect how quickly and effectively bleach works. Fine hair tends to process faster than coarse hair, as the bleach can penetrate the hair shaft more easily. Damaged or previously treated hair is more porous and may process faster, but it’s also more susceptible to damage. Always assess your hair’s condition before bleaching and consider a strand test.
Desired Level of Lightness
The extent of lightening you want to achieve plays a crucial role in determining the processing time. If you are only aiming for a subtle lightening of one or two levels, a shorter processing time will suffice. However, if you are looking to achieve a significant transformation, such as going from dark brown to platinum blonde, you will need a longer processing time and potentially multiple bleaching sessions.
Environmental Factors
The surrounding environment can influence the speed of the bleaching process. Heat can accelerate the chemical reaction, causing the bleach to process faster. Cooler temperatures, on the other hand, can slow down the process. Keeping this in mind can help you adjust your processing time accordingly.
Determining the Right Processing Time for 20 Volume Bleach
There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer to how long you should leave 20 volume bleach in your hair. However, considering the factors mentioned above and conducting a strand test are the best ways to estimate the ideal processing time.
The Importance of Strand Tests
A strand test is an absolute must before applying bleach to your entire head. This simple test allows you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach, determine the appropriate processing time, and identify any potential issues before they become widespread.
To perform a strand test:
- Select a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, preferably at the nape of your neck.
- Mix a small amount of the bleach and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Apply the mixture to the selected strand of hair.
- Check the hair every 5-10 minutes to monitor the lightening process.
- Once the desired level of lightness is achieved, rinse the strand thoroughly and assess the condition of your hair.
- Note the total processing time to help guide your full application.
General Time Guidelines
While a strand test is crucial, here are some general time guidelines for using 20 volume bleach:
- For subtle lightening (1-2 levels): 15-30 minutes.
- For medium lightening (2-3 levels): 30-45 minutes.
- Never exceed: 50 minutes.
Remember, these are just guidelines, and the actual processing time may vary depending on the factors mentioned earlier. Always prioritize the health of your hair over achieving maximum lightness in a single session.
Checking the Hair During Processing
Throughout the bleaching process, it’s crucial to monitor your hair’s progress. Gently check the hair every 5-10 minutes to assess the level of lift and the overall condition of your hair. If you notice any signs of damage, such as excessive breakage or elasticity, rinse the bleach immediately.
Potential Risks of Over-Processing Bleach
Leaving bleach on your hair for too long can lead to severe damage, which can be difficult and costly to repair. Understanding the risks associated with over-processing is essential for making informed decisions and protecting the health of your hair.
Hair Breakage
One of the most common consequences of over-processing is hair breakage. When bleach is left on for too long, it can weaken the hair shaft, making it brittle and prone to snapping. This can result in significant hair loss and uneven lengths.
Dryness and Brittleness
Over-processed hair often becomes extremely dry and brittle. The bleach strips the hair of its natural oils and moisture, leaving it feeling rough, straw-like, and difficult to manage.
Elasticity Loss
Healthy hair has a certain degree of elasticity, meaning it can stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. Over-processing can compromise this elasticity, causing the hair to become weak and prone to breakage when stretched.
Chemical Burns
Although less common with 20 volume bleach compared to higher volumes, leaving bleach on the scalp for an extended period can lead to chemical burns. This can cause redness, irritation, and even blistering.
Tips for Safe and Effective Bleaching
To minimize the risk of damage and achieve the best possible results, follow these essential tips for safe and effective bleaching:
Choose the Right Products
Select high-quality bleach and developer specifically formulated for hair. Avoid using expired products, as they may not be as effective and could potentially damage your hair.
Prepare Your Hair
Before bleaching, ensure your hair is in good condition. Avoid washing your hair for 1-2 days before bleaching to allow natural oils to protect the scalp. Consider using a deep conditioning treatment in the weeks leading up to your bleaching session to strengthen and hydrate your hair.
Mix the Bleach Properly
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when mixing the bleach and developer. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush. The consistency of the mixture should be similar to yogurt.
Apply Evenly and Quickly
Apply the bleach mixture evenly and quickly, starting at the roots (if you have significant regrowth) and working your way down to the ends. Ensure that all strands are thoroughly saturated.
Monitor and Adjust
Continuously monitor your hair’s progress during the bleaching process and adjust the processing time as needed. If you notice any signs of damage, rinse the bleach immediately.
Rinse Thoroughly
Once the desired level of lightness is achieved, rinse the bleach thoroughly with cool water. Ensure that all traces of the bleach mixture are removed from your hair.
Use a Neutralizing Shampoo
After rinsing, use a neutralizing shampoo specifically designed to stop the bleaching process and restore the hair’s pH balance.
Deep Condition Your Hair
Following the bleaching process, your hair will likely be dry and in need of intense hydration. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and improve the overall health of your hair.
Post-Bleach Care
Maintain a consistent hair care routine that includes moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments. Avoid heat styling as much as possible, and use a heat protectant spray when heat styling is necessary. Consider protein treatments to help rebuild and strengthen damaged hair.
Recovering from Over-Processed Hair
If you have over-processed your hair, don’t panic. There are several steps you can take to help restore its health and vitality.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help rebuild the protein structure of damaged hair, making it stronger and more resilient. Use protein treatments sparingly, as excessive use can lead to further dryness and breakage.
Moisturizing Treatments
Moisturizing treatments are essential for replenishing the moisture lost during the bleaching process. Use deep conditioning masks, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils to hydrate and nourish your hair.
Trim Damaged Ends
Regularly trimming damaged ends can help prevent further breakage and improve the overall appearance of your hair. Aim for a trim every 6-8 weeks.
Avoid Heat Styling
Heat styling can exacerbate damage to over-processed hair. Minimize the use of heat styling tools, such as flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers. When heat styling is necessary, use a heat protectant spray.
Be Patient
Recovering from over-processed hair takes time and patience. Be consistent with your hair care routine, and avoid further chemical treatments until your hair is fully recovered.
Bleaching your hair with 20 volume developer can be a safe and effective way to achieve your desired level of lightness. However, understanding the factors that influence the processing time, conducting a strand test, and following essential safety tips are crucial for minimizing damage and achieving beautiful, healthy hair. Remember, patience and proper care are key to a successful bleaching experience.
How long is it generally safe to leave 20 volume bleach in your hair?
The general recommendation for leaving 20 volume bleach in your hair is a maximum of 30-45 minutes. This timeframe allows the bleach to lift the hair color effectively without causing excessive damage. It’s crucial to visually monitor your hair throughout the process, checking for signs of over-processing such as elasticity loss, breakage, or a gummy texture. Individual hair types and conditions can vary, so this timeframe serves as a starting point and necessitates careful observation.
Leaving the bleach on longer than 45 minutes significantly increases the risk of severe damage, potentially leading to hair breakage, chemical burns on the scalp, and long-term hair health problems. Remember, the goal is to lift the color gradually and safely, not to achieve the desired lightness in one go at the expense of your hair’s integrity. If you don’t reach your desired level of lightness within this timeframe, it is safer to do a second bleaching session after allowing your hair to recover for a few weeks.
What factors affect how long I should leave 20 volume bleach in my hair?
Several factors play a crucial role in determining the appropriate processing time for 20 volume bleach. Your hair’s existing color, texture, and overall health heavily influence the bleaching process. Darker hair typically requires longer processing times than lighter hair, while fine or damaged hair will process faster and be more susceptible to damage. Hair that has been previously chemically treated (permed, relaxed, or previously bleached) is also more porous and absorbs the bleach more quickly.
The environmental temperature also impacts the speed of the bleaching process. Warmer temperatures accelerate the chemical reaction, causing the bleach to process faster, while cooler temperatures slow it down. It’s essential to consider these factors and adjust your processing time accordingly. Perform strand tests prior to bleaching your entire head to gauge how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the optimal processing time for your specific hair type and condition.
What are the signs that I should remove the bleach immediately?
Several warning signs indicate that you should remove the bleach from your hair immediately, regardless of the time elapsed. If you experience any burning or intense itching sensations on your scalp, rinse the bleach out right away. These sensations suggest the bleach is irritating your scalp and can potentially lead to chemical burns.
Additionally, if you notice your hair becoming excessively elastic, gummy, or breaking easily during the bleaching process, it’s a clear indication of over-processing. Rinse the bleach out immediately and apply a deep conditioning treatment to help restore moisture and strength. Continued bleaching under these conditions will only exacerbate the damage and could result in significant hair loss or irreversible damage to the hair shaft.
Can I leave 20 volume bleach in my hair overnight for maximum lightening?
Absolutely not. Leaving 20 volume bleach in your hair overnight is extremely dangerous and highly discouraged. Prolonged exposure to bleach can cause severe damage, including chemical burns, hair breakage, and complete hair loss. The strength of the bleach continues to work even while you are sleeping, leading to irreparable harm.
The extended processing time will not only compromise the integrity of your hair but also pose significant risks to your scalp. This practice can result in painful and potentially permanent damage to the hair follicles, hindering future hair growth. Always adhere to the recommended processing times and prioritize the health of your hair over achieving immediate, drastic results.
Is 20 volume bleach strong enough to lift dark brown or black hair to blonde in one session?
While 20 volume bleach can lift dark brown or black hair, achieving a blonde result in a single session is unlikely and not recommended. Lifting several levels of color can significantly damage your hair, especially when starting with very dark hair. Attempting to force such a dramatic transformation in one go increases the risk of breakage, dryness, and an uneven, brassy tone.
Instead, it’s advisable to undergo multiple bleaching sessions with 20 volume bleach, spaced several weeks apart to allow your hair to recover. This gradual approach minimizes damage and allows you to monitor the lightening process more effectively. Employing conditioning treatments and hair masks between sessions is vital to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair, promoting healthier, more sustainable lightening.
What aftercare steps should I take after bleaching my hair with 20 volume?
Proper aftercare is crucial to maintaining the health and appearance of your hair after bleaching with 20 volume. Start with a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are gentler and help prevent color from fading quickly. Focus on moisturizing and nourishing your hair to combat the dryness and potential damage caused by the bleaching process.
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments and hair masks into your routine at least once a week to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft. Minimize heat styling as much as possible, and always use a heat protectant spray when using styling tools. Additionally, consider using leave-in conditioners and hair oils to provide extra hydration and protect your hair from environmental damage. Regular trims are also recommended to remove split ends and keep your hair looking its best.
Will using heat with 20 volume bleach make it work faster or better?
While applying heat with 20 volume bleach might seem like a way to speed up the process, it’s generally not recommended and can be detrimental to your hair’s health. Heat accelerates the chemical reaction of the bleach, which can lead to faster lightening, but it also significantly increases the risk of damage, over-processing, and scalp irritation.
The controlled environment of a salon setting with professional supervision might allow for heat application under specific circumstances, but it’s typically best to avoid it when bleaching your hair at home. Stick to the recommended processing times and closely monitor your hair throughout the bleaching process. Patience and a gradual approach are key to achieving the desired results without compromising the integrity of your hair.